Visa Run - The Abuja Experience

2003
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Zibby started at giant anthills whizzing by him as he reclined on his comfy coach seat. Thoughts whizzed through his head, almost as quickly as those beautifully constructed anthills did. He was worried. For weeks, he had been trying to book an appointment for a visa interview in Lagos, without success. He was now seven weeks away from the start of his course at King's College London. Telephone contact was required, but the Commission's number was always busy; 8am, 9am, 10am, it didn't matter. The number remained busy until it closed at noon. Zibby was confident of getting the visa, but he was increasingly worried that he might not get the interview on time.

After lamenting to a few friends, some pointed him in the direction of Abuja, Nigeria's capital city located a 10-hour ride away from Lagos. Apparently, there were less people attending visa interviews there, and no previous appointment was necessary! How hard could it be?

The first day he arrived at the British High Commission (BHC) was a Friday. He was informed that interviews were not given on Fridays, but that he should return the next week, Monday to Thursday, between 9 and 12 noon. That sounded easy enough. After what felt like a very long weekend, Zibby proceeded to the BHC on Monday, at 10 am. He could hear the hum of voices before he saw the crowd. A sea of heads stretched from the embassy gates to the pavement, spilling over slightly unto the street. As his lips parted involuntarily, he thought:

What have I let myself in for?

He promptly left, resolving to return earlier the next day. Tuesday was no better, despite the fact that Zibby showed up at 7am. The crowds were there, as if they had slept there all night. A few enquiries confirmed that they had. This was when Zibby took temporary leave of his senses. Seeing his place at King's College evaporating before his eyes, Zibby resolved to return that night at midnight, to camp out with his fellow insane.

Midnight, at the British High Commission. Seeing only 5 people waiting, Zibby's heartbeat increased. Finally, he could be at the top of the queue! He would get in by morning, have his interview, and visa in hand would return to Lagos the next day! If only things had been that simple.

By 1am, there were about 20 people at the gates, and they had formed a rough queue. Zibby was 6th in line, and was still feeling very pleased with himself. This was when the police arrived. Swooping down on the visa-seeking gang as if clearing a riotous mob, the men in black chased all 20 people from the BHC gates, brandishing guns and horse-tail whips. Zibby's eyes were wide with terror as he ran, though he noticed that the young men running beside him were laughing.

Does this happen all the time?

After about an hour of hanging around, the queue began to reform! Zibby was obliged to join them, for obvious reasons. Sure enough, by 4am, out came the dependable police men. This time, there were over a hundred people there, and their escape could best be described as a stampede. A woman went down in front of Zibby, and in his attempt to avoid her, he lost his balance. Crashing to the rough concrete floor, he scraped several centimetres of skin off his knee, ripping his black formal trousers in the process, before rolling over and landing heavily on his back. Lying flat on the ground and looking up at the serene stars as 3 young men jumped over him, Zibby winced and thought:

Has it come to this?

He got up quickly and limped away to escape an oncoming whip-wielding law enforcer. His heart was heavy, but he was determined to see this embarrassing situation through. By 8am, he had lost count of the people gathered, but this time, he was near the front. Shielding his face from the annoying tourist who was taking photos of them, he waited.

At 9am, the doors opened and it seemed like it would only be a matter of time before the pain would end. 3 hours later, with only 7 people left in front of him, the BHC gate closed for the day. They were to return tomorrow; no queue positions were saved and it would be a matter of first come, first served.

Zibby walked dejectedly to a nearby shop and bought some tissue paper to daub his bleeding knee. By the next morning, with his bags packed, he returned, visa-less, to Lagos.